A Red-Leather Year for Aesthetic Functionality

Charles E. Colman

New York University School of Law; NYU Steinhardt Department of Visual Culture: Costume Studies

August 15, 2011

4:2 LANDSLIDE (American Bar Association), November-December 2011

An August 2011 decision in the high-fanfare, high-heeled case of Christian Louboutin v. Yves Saint Laurent America cements mid-2010 to mid-2011 as a "red-leather year" for the aesthetic functionality doctrine. This doctrine, which withholds trademark protection from ornamental features over which a grant of exclusive rights would significantly hinder competition, has had -- in the à propos words of the Ninth Circuit -- a decidedly "checkered" history.

Like intellectual property protection in general, the doctrine's scope has periodically expanded and contracted since it was formally recognized by the Ninth Circuit in 1952. But after that same appellate court largely banished aesthetic functionality in a 2006 decision that appeared to mark the end of an era, several recent, broadly worded decisions (including the headline-grabbing ruling in Louboutin) indicate that the aesthetic functionality doctrine may now be in a period of rapid growth -- perhaps even in the Ninth Circuit. Trademark practitioners should stay abreast of the changes in this area of the law; anyone who remains under the impression that the doctrine has been rendered toothless might be in for a nasty bite.

UPDATE (Jan. 2014): For a proposal that the courts and USPTO rely more heavily on the doctrine of "genericism" as a potential solution to the problems associated with the "aesthetic functionality" doctrine, please visit the LAW OF FASHION website -- containing a presentation given at the NYU 2014 Tri-State IP Workshop and forming the basis for a full-length work-in-progress.

Number of Pages in PDF File: 6

Keywords: louboutin, ysl, yves saint laurent, trademark, aesthetic functionality, red sole

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Date posted: July 31, 2012 ; Last revised: June 19, 2014

Suggested Citation

Colman, Charles E., A Red-Leather Year for Aesthetic Functionality (August 15, 2011). 4:2 LANDSLIDE (American Bar Association), November-December 2011. Available at SSRN: http://ssrn.com/abstract=2120571

Contact Information

Charles Edward Colman (Contact Author)
New York University School of Law ( email )
40 Washington Square South
New York, NY 10012-1099
United States
2129986248 (Phone)
HOME PAGE: http://its.law.nyu.edu/facultyprofiles/profile.cfm?personID=38792
NYU Steinhardt Department of Visual Culture: Costume Studies ( email )
34 Stuyvesant Street
New York, NY 10003
United States
HOME PAGE: http://steinhardt.nyu.edu/art/costume/faculty
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